Eat Pray Love: Living in a Yoga Ashram in India

The book Eat Pray Love, followed by the popular film, introduced millions of people to the idea of travelling to India in search of something deeper than an ordinary holiday.

For many people, it also created a curiosity about Yoga Ashrams in India and what it might actually be like to leave behind the familiar rhythm of daily life and spend time living in a traditional Yoga environment.

Since then, we have received many questions from people who are interested in experiencing Ashram life in India. What exactly is a Yoga Ashram? Can anyone stay in one? Is accommodation free? Are there strict rules? Is an Ashram a religious organisation or even a cult? And what should someone expect when they arrive?

These are reasonable questions. A book or a film can create an interest in India, Yoga and spiritual life, but it cannot explain the enormous variety of Ashrams and residential Yoga centres that exist across the country. The word Ashram itself covers a wide range of traditions, lifestyles and purposes.

So, before you pack your bags for India, it is worth understanding what an Ashram actually means.

What is a Yoga Ashram?

The Sanskrit word Ashrama has a much deeper meaning than simply a place where people go to practise Yoga. Traditionally, an Ashram is a place associated with spiritual practice, learning, contemplation and disciplined living. In the Indian tradition, Ashrams have long been connected with teachers, lineages and communities where knowledge was transmitted through direct relationship and lived experience.

The older Gurukula tradition was based on living close to the teacher and learning not only through formal instruction but also through participation in daily life. The student learned through observation, practice, service, discipline and personal guidance. This was very different from the modern classroom model in which education is generally separated from everyday life.

It is important, however, not to imagine that everyone in ancient India necessarily lived in an Ashram. India had many different systems of education and social life, and the Gurukula tradition existed alongside family life, village communities, temples, monasteries and other institutions. Ashrams were one important part of India's long spiritual and educational heritage.

A traditional Yoga Ashram is therefore not simply a place where people come to do Yoga asana for an hour each morning. Yoga is understood as a way of living and studying, and physical practice is only one part of it. Depending on the tradition, daily life may include asana, Pranayama, meditation, Mantra, chanting, study, self enquiry, Seva and other traditional practices.

The intention is to create an environment in which the practitioner can turn attention inward and explore the body, breath, mind and consciousness more deeply.

This is also why residential Yoga can be very different from attending a Yoga class while continuing exactly the same lifestyle outside. When you live within a Yoga environment, the practice begins to extend beyond the Yoga mat. The way you eat, sleep, speak, work, rest and relate to other people becomes part of the experience.

Why do people come to live in a Yoga Ashram in India?

People arrive at an Indian Yoga Ashram for many different reasons. Some have been practising Yoga for years and want to deepen their understanding. Others are complete beginners who have become curious about traditional Yoga after reading a book, attending a class or travelling through India.

Some people come because they are looking for silence and simplicity. Others want to understand meditation or explore a more traditional approach to Hatha Yoga. Increasingly, people also come to India for a residential Yoga Teacher Training Course, such as a 200 Hour YTT or 300 Hour YTT, where Yoga is studied as a complete discipline rather than simply as physical exercise.

There is no single reason that makes someone suitable for Ashram life.

The more important question is what you are looking for.

If your intention is to experience traditional Yoga, meditation and a residential way of living, an Ashram or an Ashram inspired Yoga retreat may be appropriate. If your intention is to become a Yoga teacher, a structured residential TTC or YTT may be more suitable. If you are looking for Ayurvedic treatment, Panchakarma or a period of physical and mental rejuvenation, an Ayurveda retreat may offer a different kind of residential experience.

The important thing is to understand what the centre actually offers before making a decision.

How can I join a Yoga Ashram in India?

For someone coming from outside India, joining a Yoga Ashram is generally much easier than it may appear. There are Ashrams and residential Yoga centres throughout India, including traditional centres in the Himalayas, South India, Rishikesh, Bihar, Kerala and Goa.

However, it is always better to research carefully before arriving.

Different Ashrams follow different traditions and have very different expectations. Some are primarily concerned with meditation and spiritual study. Others focus on Hatha Yoga and Pranayama. Some are closely connected with a particular Guru and lineage. Others operate more like residential Yoga centres and offer structured programmes for visitors.

In Goa, for example, there are residential Yoga centres where people can experience traditional Yoga within a more accessible setting. SWAN in Assagao, North Goa, follows a residential approach influenced by the Gurukula and Ashram traditions, while offering programmes designed for contemporary practitioners.

For someone wishing to study Yoga seriously, a residential Yoga Teacher Training Course in Goa can provide a particularly immersive experience. A 200 Hour YTT or 300 Hour YTT is not simply an extended asana class. A properly structured TTC can include Hatha Yoga, Pranayama, meditation, Yoga philosophy, the Yoga Sutras of Patanjali, anatomy, teaching methodology and the broader understanding of Yoga as a way of life.

For this reason, choosing a residential Yoga centre should begin with the question of what you actually want to learn.

Does living in an Ashram mean free food and accommodation?

This is one of the most common misunderstandings about Ashram life.

Historically, many Ashrams and spiritual institutions in India were supported by donations, patrons, kings, local communities and students. Some continue to operate primarily through donations and voluntary support. Certain traditional institutions may provide accommodation and food without charging a conventional fee, particularly for monks, Sadhus or people who are staying as part of a specific spiritual tradition.

That does not mean that every Ashram in India offers free accommodation.

Modern residential Yoga centres have considerable costs. Food has to be purchased, buildings have to be maintained, teachers and staff have to be supported, and the facilities themselves have to be cared for. Many centres therefore charge a programme or residential fee.

There is nothing contradictory about this.

A residential Yoga retreat can retain the spirit of an Ashram while operating within the practical realities of the modern world. At SWAN, for example, the intention is to create a residential environment in which Yoga is lived throughout the day rather than simply offered as a commercial fitness class.

The important distinction is between the spirit of Ashram living and the assumption that an Ashram must provide everything free of charge.

Are there free Yoga Ashrams in India?

Yes, there are places in India where food and accommodation may be provided without a conventional commercial fee. But this should not automatically be interpreted as meaning that the place costs nothing to operate.

Traditional Indian culture has a long history of supporting spiritual institutions through Dana, or voluntary giving. People contribute according to their means so that teachers, monks, Ashrams and charitable institutions can continue their work.

If you are specifically looking for a free Yoga Ashram in India, it is particularly important to research the institution carefully before travelling. Find out what is expected of visitors, what kind of accommodation is provided, whether meals are included, what daily duties are involved and whether the environment is appropriate for you.

Free does not necessarily mean easier.

In some traditional settings, the absence of a programme fee may come with an expectation of Seva, discipline, simplicity and participation in the daily functioning of the Ashram.

Is a Yoga Ashram a cult?

No. A Yoga Ashram is not automatically a cult, although, as with any type of spiritual or religious organisation, it is sensible to understand the particular institution before committing yourself to it.

A genuine traditional Ashram usually has a lineage, a teaching tradition and a defined approach to spiritual practice. There may be a Guru or senior teacher, and there may be rules governing conduct, food, dress, communication, relationships and participation in the daily routine.

From the outside, some of these practices can appear unfamiliar to someone accustomed to ordinary modern life.

That does not make them cult practices.

At the same time, it is important not to surrender common sense simply because a place describes itself as spiritual. Anyone considering a residential spiritual programme should ask questions, understand the rules, know who is responsible for the centre and make sure that the environment is respectful and appropriate.

A healthy spiritual tradition should encourage awareness, discipline, enquiry and responsibility rather than blind dependence.

Are there strict rules in an Indian Yoga Ashram?

There can be.

The amount of discipline varies enormously from one Ashram to another. Some places are extremely traditional and maintain a very structured daily routine. Others are considerably more relaxed and are designed for people who are experiencing Ashram life for the first time.

Common expectations may include maintaining silence at certain times, following a fixed timetable, eating vegetarian food, avoiding alcohol and smoking, dressing modestly, attending scheduled practices and respecting the shared environment.

Some traditional institutions may place restrictions on mobile phones, computers and internet use. This is not necessarily an attempt to control people. The intention can simply be to create an environment in which the practitioner is less distracted by the outside world.

For someone accustomed to checking a phone every few minutes, this can initially feel rather dramatic.

After a few days, however, many people discover that the absence of constant digital stimulation is one of the most valuable parts of the experience.

The discipline of Ashram life is ultimately intended to support practice. It gives structure to the day and reduces some of the choices and distractions that normally consume our attention.

What is daily life like in a Yoga Ashram?

There is no universal Ashram timetable, but residential Yoga environments generally begin early.

A day may include meditation, Hatha Yoga asana, Pranayama, cleansing practices, chanting, study and periods of rest or silence. Depending on the tradition, there may also be Mantra practice, rituals, Seva or discussions on Yoga philosophy.

The purpose is not to keep people busy from morning until night.

The purpose is to create rhythm.

When the same basic activities are repeated each day, the mind gradually becomes less dependent upon constant stimulation. Eating becomes simpler. Sleeping becomes more regular. Practice becomes more consistent. There is often more opportunity to observe oneself because there are fewer distractions competing for attention.

This is one of the reasons that residential Yoga can be so different from a weekly Yoga class.

At a traditional Yoga retreat in Goa, for example, you may practise Hatha Yoga in the morning, study Yoga philosophy later in the day, practise meditation or Yoga Nidra, share meals with other practitioners and spend time in quiet surroundings. At a residential 200 Hour TTC in Goa, the schedule may be considerably more intensive because the purpose is not simply to experience Yoga but to study it in depth and develop the knowledge and skills required to teach.

A 300 Hour TTC generally takes the study further, building on previous Yoga education and practice.

The common thread is that Yoga is not treated as something that begins and ends with an asana class.

Is Ashram life comfortable?

This depends entirely on what you mean by comfortable.

Traditional Ashram life is generally not designed around luxury. The emphasis is usually on simplicity, discipline and practice rather than elaborate accommodation or entertainment.

Modern residential Yoga retreats have developed a different balance. It is possible to maintain an Ashram inspired atmosphere while providing clean rooms, good food, comfortable facilities and a safe environment for international visitors.

This is particularly relevant in places such as Goa, where people may be combining their interest in traditional Yoga with travel in India.

At SWAN in Assagao, North Goa, the intention is not to create a luxury resort disguised as an Ashram. The aim is to provide a genuine residential environment where traditional Yoga, meditation and study can become part of daily life while still being accessible to people coming from different parts of the world.

Is a Yoga Ashram suitable for beginners?

Absolutely, provided the particular centre offers programmes appropriate for beginners.

You do not need to arrive in India already knowing Sanskrit, sitting comfortably in Padmasana or having years of meditation experience.

What matters much more is your willingness to participate, observe the discipline of the environment and approach the practice with an open mind.

For some beginners, a short residential Yoga retreat is the best introduction. It allows them to experience traditional Hatha Yoga, meditation and Pranayama without committing to a long training programme.

Others discover that they want to study more seriously and eventually enrol in a 200 Hour Yoga Teacher Training Course. Some continue further into a 300 Hour YTT or TTC as their understanding and practice develop.

The important thing is not to choose a programme because it sounds impressive. Choose one that corresponds to where you actually are.

Choosing the right Yoga Ashram in India

India has an extraordinary diversity of Yoga traditions, and there is no single Ashram that will be right for everyone.

Before booking, take the time to understand the lineage, teachers, programme, accommodation, food, daily schedule and expectations. Read the information carefully and ask questions if something is unclear.

Most importantly, understand whether you are looking for an Ashram experience, a Yoga retreat, a meditation retreat, an Ayurveda programme or a professional Yoga Teacher Training Course.

These experiences can overlap, but they are not the same.

If your interest is traditional Hatha Yoga and a deeper residential experience, Goa offers an interesting combination of traditional practice and an international environment. Assagao in North Goa provides a quieter setting away from the busiest tourist areas while remaining accessible to the rest of Goa.

For someone looking for a residential Yoga retreat in Goa, a Yoga Teacher Training in Goa, a 200 Hour YTT, a 300 Hour YTT, or a traditional Yoga and meditation programme, the most important thing is to look beyond the photographs and the marketing language and understand how the place actually functions.

Living Yoga rather than simply practising Yoga

Perhaps this is what attracted so many people to the idea of Eat Pray Love in the first place.

The appeal was not simply the idea of doing Yoga in India. It was the possibility of stepping away from an established routine and experiencing life differently for a period of time.

That is what an Ashram can offer when approached sincerely.

You wake up at a different time. You eat differently. You practise regularly. You spend less time consuming information and more time observing yourself. You meet people from completely different backgrounds who have come to India for their own reasons. You encounter unfamiliar ideas and practices, and sometimes you discover that the most interesting part of the experience is not what happens during meditation but what you notice about yourself afterwards.

An Ashram is not a magical place where all problems disappear. Nor is it necessary to romanticise India or traditional Yoga.

The value of residential Yoga lies in creating the conditions for practice.

For a few days, a few weeks or, in the case of serious students, several months, the ordinary rhythm of life can be simplified enough to allow something deeper to be explored.

That is perhaps the real meaning of living in a Yoga Ashram in India.

You are not simply visiting a place where Yoga is taught.

For a while, Yoga becomes the way the day is lived.

Copyright 2016 SWAN Yoga Retreat, Assagao, Goa, India